12 Weeks in Thailand: How to spend your time as a Digital Nomad

Thailand, Thailand, Thailand… For many, it’s a tropical fantasy; for others, it’s a backpacking dream; for me, it was, for just six months, home. And, my goodness, do I miss it.

It’s been a while since I last saw the ‘Land of Smiles’, but it impressed on me a few key life lessons: camaraderie and friendship, above all else, are what feed fulfilment; in the world of the written word, mentorship is most important to your career; the slow life is better than the rat race; rest is not something that one should ever neglect in pursuit of success; focus primarily on quality over quantity; and don’t ever expect more of others than you are willing to put in yourself.

Ultimately, I owe a lot to Thailand and the people within her borders, from a wonderful Burmese chef and lawyer, Cherry, who kept me fed and watered; an American writer—my mentor, Jill—who, once upon a time, in the 90s, sat on the pantheon of US tech editors and, two decades later, took the time to hone my skills and teach me more about the English language than my education ever had; to the many friends that I made, from Canada, the United States, New Zealand, South Africa, and many more places, who gave me the drive I needed to lead, support, and, in the end, succeed. To this period of my life, I owe much and many.

And so, as you can tell, Thailand shaped me and my career. From lazy afternoons on the white sandy beaches, sipping whisky from the bottle to late nights sitting at the local pub singing along to Wonderwall by Oasis among many Thais but also my good friends and loved ones found on this journey, and even later nights spent writing and editing at ‘home.’ And, I suppose, now that Tom has requested an article about Thailand, it might be time to finally put a few thoughts on paper about my time half a decade ago. To some of my friends and family, it’s surprising that I haven’t already; I understand that, but also, it is a time during which I disconnected from the outside world and focussed inward, driven by my mission to grow as both an individual and as a writer, not necessarily a time for sharing with the outside world.

For now, I’ll just share some of the activities that I enjoyed and would recommend to anybody who finds themselves wondering about a potential elongated stay in that mesmerising nation.

Communicate with the locals

Now, I’d recommend learning some Thai, but in truth, I only learned a few words and phrases. A poor effort from me, admittedly, but I was a busy fellow with words to write and deadlines to meet. Those who went through the same experience as I often joke about the ‘sweatshop’ nature of our working conditions—it was a lot, but it was worth it. Anyway, yes… Some of my favourite exchanges in Thailand were with the Thai people themselves. Being that Thailand is a Buddhist nation, the population is, whilst stereotypically mischievous and somewhat party-like in locations such as Phuket, Koh Samui, etc., incredibly caring and wise. There is something about Thai people that is infectious; they almost always smile (hence, ‘the Land of Smiles’), they love to chat—even in English—and they absolutely adore it when foreigners (‘farangs’ to them) make an effort to get involved in their local community. Browse the local fresh-food markets, talk to the elderly ladies who make the most delightful Thai coffee from their roadside stalls, and ask those semi-well-versed in English about the history of the area and their culture.

I spent many a night sitting at my local beach bar, Ban Don, just outside of Lamai, in Koh Samui, chatting to the owner, Chokee, about the world around us, the politics of the day (I was there during the 2019 coup d'état), and how the nation had changed since the days that saw my Great Grandfather, a soldier for the Sherwood Foresters, imprisoned, working on the Siam-Burma Railway (the ‘Death Railway’ in WWII), and today. And, truly, the history of Thailand is a fascinating one—it is both magnificent and humbling and something that you can only truly appreciate when communicating with the people who have experienced it. Much like anything in life, I suppose.

Enjoy the white sands and azure seas

I lived on Koh Samui, one of three well-known islands in the region, which include Koh Pha Ngan (perfect hippie retreat and home of the ‘moon’ parties) and Ko Tao (ex-party hotspot). While life differs from the mainland, lacking in some elements, it’s not so dissimilar; one thing, however, is in abundance: the picture-perfect white sandy beaches and turquoise water. The locals, for whatever reason, tend not to spend much time by the beach; younger people do, but as they mature, their lives take them elsewhere. That’s not to say that they never do, but I can confirm that, away from more touristic areas, the beaches are near enough deserted. For nomads and remote workers, that is bloody fantastic: clear beaches, no noise beyond birdsong and the crashing waves, and an endless horizon at which to wonder.

Sitting down in the warm sand, knowing that this beautiful sanctuary of peace is, more or less, exclusively yours to enjoy is… Well, rather than say ‘what it is’, I’ll just say that it puts you in a state of serenity, and it is cathartic (psychologically, not medicinally, to be clear). There is something about being alone with one's thoughts whilst sitting in such a place that makes you feel far away from the Western world; something about the sounds, the smell of the air, and a relative feeling of oneness. It just feels right, and it feels good. A little bit of ‘la dolce vita’, as the Italians would say.

Do it, my friends. You won’t regret it, and you’ll understand.

Swimming

Given that Thais don’t frequent the beach, inevitably, they rarely go swimming in the sea. Now, I’ve lived in and visited a fair few ‘hot’ locations around the world, and the water is always warmer, but in Thailand, walking into the sea really is like submerging yourself in an almost-hot bath. You even get goosebumps. It’s a delight, and, again, it often seems like it’s all yours. So, on many afternoons, I took a break from writing and allowed myself some time to float around in the calm, toasty waters, thinking without thought whilst staring at the blue skies above.

Side note: When you swim (or float) a little further away from the shoreline, be wary of what might be living on the seabed. I, on one occasion, dropped my legs slightly whilst turning and accidentally stood on a sea urchin. It hurt but wasn’t poisonous; I’m mostly sorry for breaking off some of its spines. Fortunately, Chokee, who I mentioned earlier, was on hand to remove some of the spines from my foot. Cheers again! If you ever find yourself in that predicament, make sure to soak your foot in vinegar or saline and remove the spines with tweezers; it’ll help.

Go on holiday

I know what you’re thinking. ‘I’m staying in Southeast Asia; I’m already on holiday.’ Don’t be fooled by the remote-working or nomadic lifestyle, my friends. Just because you’re living out of a suitcase in nations far from your homeland, it does not automatically translate to being on vacation. Colleagues and friends of mine—and wider society, in general—often make this mistake when thinking about those of us who travel. Yes, we get to see the sights, we can go to a wonderful beach any day of the week, and mysterious cultures surround us, but when it’s your everyday life, and you’re working remotely, you merge with those surroundings; they become your norm. That is not akin to taking time off and exploring.

In fact, to be fully transparent with you, dear reader, one of my regrets from my time in Thailand is just how much I worked and how much downtime I did not take. I had a beautiful world right outside my front door, yet I often found myself, in the stereotypical writer or edit fashion, squirrelled away behind my desk, furiously hitting the keys on the board. And so, I really do implore you not to make that mistake; make sure to take some time off. If you’re on the mainland, visit the islands; if you’re on the islands, visit the mainland or neighbouring islands. Do not let your Western friends and colleagues make you feel like you are living in an eternal holiday mode. Leave that mindset in whichever nation you come from. Thais don’t work all hours, nor should you.

Case in point: After many months of working hard, Jill and I, alongside a lovely Australian colleague, Renee, jumped on a ferry from Koh Samui to Ko Tao; we hadn’t realised, until our first evening in Tao, just how much we had been working. All three of us were worn out, and it was only when we actively took a real vacation that we realised. Just a weekend away, actually holidaying, and, at the risk of misspeaking for the three of us, we felt refreshed, renewed, and ready to conquer the challenges ahead.

Another side note: When you’re in Thailand, I recommend taking slow-paced ferries to the islands. There are faster alternatives, but, honestly, travelling at traditional Thai speed is absolutely fabulous; there’s something magical about sitting on the deck of a ferry, soaking up the sun, and chatting. I love it and can’t wait to do it again; give it a crack.

Taking it easy: the Thai mile per hour.

On that last ‘side note’, I need to discuss ‘Thai speed’. If you haven’t been to Thailand beyond a one-week tourist experience in Bangkok or in well-known party areas like Phuket, you won’t understand this.

Thailand runs on its own clock; outside of major cities, life is slow and relaxed, and deadlines are, without making Thai’s sound less punctual, flexible. Is the island’s Wi-Fi down due to a storm? That’s okay. We’ll figure it out in a few days; the shop was meant to open fifteen minutes ago, but the clerk is chatting with somebody on the street. No problem; the speed limit on this road is 60mph, but I fancy sauntering along at 20. Great; take your time!

It just doesn’t matter.

In the West, and in metropolitan areas, especially, we’ve got it into our heads that everything needed to be done yesterday. That’s rubbish. Thai people, perhaps due to the nation's Buddhist roots, take it easy. And I love that. Personally, I’m fairly laid back and calm, anyway, so I took to the Thai pace of life like a duck to water, but seeing society operate efficiently—more importantly, sufficiently—without running around like the idiomatic ‘headless chicken’ puts a lot of Western societal norms into perspective. And not necessarily a positive perspective, at that.

So, yes, when you’re in Thailand… go slow. Or, if in Bangkok, which is the polar opposite of what I’ve said, be wary of what Benny Andersson and Björn Ulvaeus of ABBA and Sir Tim Rice once wrote and Murray Head sang for the 1984 musical Chess:

One night in Bangkok makes a hard man humble

Not much between despair and ecstasy

One night in Bangkok and the tough guys tumble

Can’t be too careful with your company

I can feel the Devil walking next to me.

Visit the temples 

Most people love visiting heritage sites, right? Right. In Thailand, you’re in for a real treat; there are over 40,000 temples—33,000 of which are still in use. Fortunately, you can visit a whopping 37,000 of them. That’s likely an unachievable feat, but you’ve got plenty to choose from. You’ll hear traditional Thai chants, spoken in a language associated with the Theravada Buddhist scripture, Pali, and enjoy the peace renowned with the gardens of Eastern temples. Now, a few etiquette notes: when greeting monks, give them a ‘high wai’*—Thailand’s traditional greeting—with a slight bow and no prolonged eye contact.  

*The ‘wai’ is the act of pressing your palms together as if praying. For reference, it’s the same as Indian namaste. The higher you hold your hands, the more respect you are showing. (Hence ‘high wai’—a symbol of heightened respect for the monks.) But don’t be an idiot and put your hands above your head.

If you’re a dog-lover, on Koh Samui, take a look at the local Temple Project, which takes care of the many stray (‘beach’) dogs found on the island, feeding them, giving them necessary vaccines, and treating any kind of wounds or illnesses that they might have.

There are also shrines, palaces, castles, national parks, and other such exciting places to visit, of course—more on those another time.

Animal conservation

Thailand and the noble Asian elephant (‘chang’ in Thai) go hand-in-hand. It’s been the symbol of this great nation for as long as records have been written and is considered a part of the national identity. Unfortunately, the larger number of elephants in Thailand don’t live in the splendid luxury that befits them, but, where ethical sanctuaries exist, some do. At these sanctuaries, which are really quite something, you have the opportunity to feed, bathe, and play with the elephants. But do not expect or request to ride them; while, in theory, they’re able to carry a human without too much effort, research has shown that many rescued elephants suffer from spinal problems associated with riding and other such labour practices. Love them; don’t abuse them—a message that we still must share with many regions of the world where this mighty animal is still, unfortunately, mistreated.

Get adventurous with food—visit the night markets

Food and culture? Well, they’re synonymous, aren’t they. And, my goodness, Thailand has a lot of tasty treats for you to enjoy. To get the best local delicacies, from questionable battered bugs to arachnids and dodgy-looking fish dishes, you should visit your local ‘night market’. All towns and cities have them; however, in some places, they’re nightly, and in others, they’re hosted just a couple of nights a week. You’ll have to figure that one out for yourself. Night markets are an opportunity for the local community and its farang guests—whether tourists or remote workers—to get together and share a laugh and light entertainment, enjoy a few beverages, and eat late into the evening; it’s an experience that gives you the true Thai culinary experience for, from a Western perspective, such a little amount of money. A filling meal made by the local chef-extraordinaire Grandmother seldom amounts to more than £1, with a drink, and it’s almost always better than what you’d get at a restaurant in both Thailand and back home.

Speaking of Grandma, a lot of Thais like to set up stalls attached to their own homes, on the roadside, where they serve homemade food—think red, green, yellow, massaman curries, pad thai, pad kra pao, etc.—to hungry passersby. Much like at the night markets, this food is often superior in quality to what you’d find in some restaurants. And even cheaper. Stopping in, taking a pew on a cushion on the floor, and tucking into some tasty grub is something that the Thais really appreciate and, of course, assists the local economy. I recommend putting your money into these local businesses, rather than giving them to large chains. But that’s your choice.

You can also access these stalls through food-ordering apps like GoPanda, Grab, and Hungry Hub; they work in the same way as, say, Uber Eats. The difference is, of course, that, from a Western perspective, service charges a mere pennies/cents, and the cost of whole meals can sometimes equate to the price of a dip on Western apps. This is amazing for nomads who want to order in, and, fortunately, traditionally-made Thai food can be very good for you—so it’s tasty, it’s cheap, and it’s nutritious. Amazing, in short.

Well, this piece has gone on a little longer than I originally planned when I sat down earlier today. So I suppose I should wrap it up here. As always, thank you so very much for reading; we value your time, and I hope that you’ve found some value in this piece. At some point in the near future, I’ll likely follow it up with some more ‘things to do’. After all, one cannot do justice to a nation such as Thailand in just one piece of content—that’s impossible—and, truth be told, I wouldn’t want to insult the Land of Smiles by claiming otherwise. 

Anyway, if you’re a remote worker or a digital nomad who likes to jump around the globe, definitely consider Thailand. You won’t be able to stay forever—unless you’ve got the money to splash on the more costly Thai Elite Visa scheme—but there are several options, from single-entry and multiple-entry tourist visas to long-term resident and retirement visas, to consider.

Chat again soon! Ollie

P.S. And, just so you know, I fully intend to return one day. Jill, if you’re reading this, I still need to hand back your book, and I want to re-read one of mine that you’ve got. Oh, and, I want to put those orange and black flip-flops on just one more time before they fall apart.